Margaret River: Drink Or Swim

Get Up & Go - Spring 2004

Western Australia’s Margaret River region was famous for its surfing beaches long before it became famous for its wine. As local winemaker Greg Bettenay points out, many of those now ageing surfers were at the forefront in taking Margaret River wine to the world stage. Despite its transformation from a sleepy farming community and surfing hangout to an epicurean paradise in little more than three decades, there are still some bridges to the past. Every now and then you’ll see a car with surfboard on top pulling up at the cellar door. There’s still the odd coffee shop with hippie paraphernalia. The main street has as many surf wear shops as it has restaurants. It was the lure of the surf which first brought Greg, 50, to the area in 1968 and he says it is his fellow surfers from that era who are “now the wealthy ones … They all bought properties for virtually nothing and are just about semi-retired now, lucky buggers.”

Although Greg went there regularly from Perth, he and his wife Terri didn’t buy their property till 1989, when they planted their vineyard in Willyabrup. They later added two guest cottages and a luxury spa apartment which look out over the vineyard and a trout-filled lake. It’s a business that leaves little time for a surf but as Greg says, “I can still hear it every morning”. And he loves being on the land. “It’s great to be able to see the seasons change in the vineyard.” Greg, who is the senior lecturer in viticulture at Margaret River TAFE, says the region is perfect for grapes. “It has a maritime influence, with the ocean on three sides. Every day the sea breeze comes in about 3pm (keeping the temperature down) and our rain comes in winter when it doesn’t affect the fruit. We have lovely long slow growing seasons.”

These gently maturing vines produce wine that, like people, only improves with age. Margaret River is a region that will satisfy the tastes of those who take their time to slowly savour it. Ian Parmenter and his partner Ann Dewar have been doing just that since they bought land there in 1992. The presenter of ABC Television’s Consuming Passions wrote all about his seachange in Sheer Bottled Bliss, published by HarperCollins last year. They planted 1ha of Chardonnay in 1994 and spent weeks at a time in a rundown cottage, Ian developing his recipes on the wood stove. They loved it so much they built a “serious house” in 1999.

They make 3000 bottles of their Artarmus wine each year, concentrating on Chardonnay because it is the benchmark white of the area. Cabernet Sauvignon also grows there with stunning results, but they won’t be planting any reds. “We’ve learnt our lesson,” says Ian. On the corner of the property there’s an honour system stall where Ian’s neighbours sell their produce. Not surprisingly, they mostly eat at home. According to Ian, “Ann says, ‘why eat out when I’ve got you to cook’.”

Yet they could take their pick of a long list of fine restaurants, from the slick and stylish Vat 107 in Margaret River to Romano Rotelli’s fabulous Pensiero in nearby Witchcliffe. Many of the wineries have excellent restaurants too. Vat 107 has four guest rooms above the restaurant, each with spa bath and king-size bed, while other indulgent accommodation options include the National Trust-classified Basildene Manor, an elegant country estate built in 1912. Cape Lodge has luxurious accommodation set in 15ha of manicured parkland and features occasional masterclasses by winemakers and guest chefs. Margaret River township is on the banks of the river 8km from the coast. The Wine Region that surrounds it stretches 110km from north to south and 27km from east to west. It boasts more than 200 vineyards and 80 wineries, so visitors have to make some serious choices about which ones to include.

A good place to start is the Wine Tourism Showroom at the Margaret River Tourist Bureau. The region has come a long way since the late 1960s when the Cullen family planted a trial acre of vines on their dairy farm. The label that bears their name is still among industry leaders, along with others such as Cape Mentelle, Moss Wood and Evans & Tate. Vasse Felix, now owned by the Holmes à Court family, was the region’s first commercial vineyard. It has a fine restaurant and an art gallery of works from the Holmes à Court collection. One of the most striking cellar doors is Voyager Estate, built in South African Cape Dutch style and surrounded by rose gardens. Just up the road, Leeuwin Estate is an icon, known for its outdoor concerts, its fine restaurant and a gallery displaying the paintings from its Art Series labels. For a small fee, you can also taste these premium wines.

One of the most delightful winery restaurants is Flutes at Brookland Valley, where Francois Morvan creates regionally inspired dishes such as Pemberton marron with green bean salad, and venison and proscuitto mignon with caramelized figs. The restaurant has an idyllic setting overlooking a lake and a bronze statue of Pan, the ancient Greek god who loved the good life. There’s also a gallery selling beautiful wine-related art and objects. Local produce takes pride of place on most Margaret River menus, while venison, cheeses, preserves and condiments can be bought, often direct from the producer, if you want to create your own picnic. Margaret Riviera, a shop at Cowaramup, brings many of the products together under the one roof. Don’t miss the Margaret River Chocolate Company in Willyabrup, Margaret River Cheese Company in Cowaramup, Margaret River Venison in Caves Road and The Berry Farm in Bessell Road.

When all the eating and drinking becomes too much, there are plenty of other diversions including wildflowers in spring and an abundance of arts and crafts galleries. The fishing is excellent, particularly along the Augusta coast and Busselton Jetty. A train can take you to the end of the jetty which extends nearly 2km. Drives through the pretty Boranup Karri Forest and to Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse are also worthwhile. Between June and September the cape is a great spot for whale watching. The region also has some impressive caves, Mammoth Cave being one of the few in Australia with disabled access.

FACT FILE

Margaret River Visitor Centre: phone (08) 9757 2911 or www.margaretriver.com

Climate: Maximums are in the high 20s to low 30s in summer and 17 to 20 degrees in winter. Minimums vary from 8 to 11 degrees in winter and average 16 degrees in summer. Most rain falls between April and October.

Getting There: By car, Margaret River is 279 km south-west of Perth via the Bussell Highway.
Transwa has daily coach services from Perth to Busselton and Margaret River: phone (08) 9754 1666 or www.transwa.wa.gov.au

© Christine Salins

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