Go West

Australian Good Taste - August 2004

Western Australian wines were on everyone’s lips during the 1990s. They were a bit expensive, a little uppity even, but that was all part of their appeal. And then the gloss went off them a bit. It wasn’t that their quality went down. In fact, many are still jolly good. It’s just that everyone got excited about a lot of other wine regions and styles, and they got lost in the bigger picture. Today’s consumers tend to be more concerned about choosing the variety they like. This isn’t such a bad thing. It’s actually a good thing if you take the time to learn which varieties do well in which regions. And there are plenty of varieties that do well in WA. In most of the south-west, the Mediterranean climate of cool to cold wet winters and warm dry summers produces beautifully rich Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon.

The west has also become synonymous with blends, most notably Semillon Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Merlot. Margaret River rivals South Australia’s Coonawarra in producing Australia’s best Cabernet. Interestingly, it makes only about one percent of Australia’s wine yet supplies 10 to 20 per cent of the super-premium market. Nevertheless, Western Australia is still a small player. According to the Australian Bureau of Statistics, it made 38 million litres or four per cent of the 1037 million litres of wine Australia produced last year. Compare this with South Australia which produced 49 percent, NSW 33 percent and Victoria 15 percent. All of which means, of course, that we have to treasure these gems from the west.

SWAN DISTRICT

Where is it?
A cork’s throw, or 34km, north-east of Perth.

What grows best?
Chenin Blanc reigns supreme. Chardonnay, Verdelho and Shiraz do well.

Why it’s a winner:
Grapes ripen easily in the hot dry summers and well-drained soils of the river plain. WA’s oldest winery, Olive Farm, was established here in 1830.

Names to look for:
David and Beverley Atkinson established Jane Brook Estate in 1972, but some of their vines date back nearly 60 years. They have another vineyard at Margaret River, from which they made their first Jane Brook Merlot last year. They also make the no-nonsense Plain Jane range. Houghton has an amazing track record with its White Burgundy, first made in 1937 by the legendary Jack Mann. It also has the Moondah Brook and Crofters labels. At the Sandalford cellar door, old gnarled vines create a cool canopy for an outdoor lunch. It can be reached by a river cruise from Perth. At 11am every Saturday, it has a winery tour in which you get to blend your own wine.

Hot tip:
Pick up a map from the Swan Valley and Eastern Region Visitor Centre and follow the 32 km Food and Wine Trail.

PERTH HILLS

Where is it?
30 km south-east of Perth.

What grows best?
Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon.

Why it’s a winner:
This is one of WA’s best kept secrets. Warm summers and cold, wet winters produce distinctive wines.

Names to look for:
One of the largest vineyards is Millbrook, whose Barking Owl wines are named after an odd little owl that really barks! It can often been seen in the vineyard. Western Range has a state-of-the-art winery and makes a good Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Malbec and other value-for-money wines.

Hot tip:
Going green? Western Range makes an organic Shiraz (about $20).

PEEL

Where is it?
Just south of Perth, around Mandurah.

What grows best?
Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Semillon, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz.

Why it’s a winner:
Plenty for visitors to do in between visiting cellar doors.

Names to look for:
Baldivis Estate, Peel Estate.

Hot tip:
Between November and January, Lake Clifton is home to thousands of black swans. Fill your glass at the Lake Clifton cellar door 100 metres from the water’s edge.

GEOGRAPHE

Where is it?
Around Bunbury, 150km south of Perth.

What grows best?
Chardonnay Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Shiraz.

Why it’s a winner:
Long ripening provides intense flavours and good acid balance.

Names to look for:
Capel Vale makes elegant wines to suit all budgets. Its Cabernet Shiraz Merlot sits equally well with summer lunches and hearty winter dishes.

Hot tip:
Drive to Peppermint Grove Beach, open a bottle and watch the sun set over the water.

MARGARET RIVER

Where is it?
Further from Perth than you might think: it’s a good three hours drive. The wine region stretches 110km from north to south and 27km east to west. With more than 80 wineries, visitors have to make some serious choices. Start at the Margaret River Visitor Centre.

What grows best?
Cabernet Sauvignon was the first to capture attention, but Chardonnay, Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc quickly followed. There is increasing interest in Verdelho, Shiraz and Merlot.

Why it’s a winner:
Greg Bettenay, owner of Bettenay Wines and a senior lecturer in viticulture at Margaret River TAFE, says the mild maritime climate is perfect for grapes. The region is surrounded by ocean on three sides. “Every day the sea breeze comes in about 3pm and our rain comes in winter when it doesn’t affect the fruit. We have lovely long slow growing seasons.”

Names to look for:
The region has come a long way since the 1960s when the Cullen family planted a trial acre of vines. Vasse Felix, now owned by the Holmes à Court family, was the first commercial vineyard. Its Classic Dry White was a Semillon Sauvignon Blanc blend but it now adds Chardonnay for more complexity. Leeuwin Estate is known for its outdoor concerts, fine restaurant and gallery of paintings from its Art Series labels, while Palandri Wines also has a very flash cellar door. Evans & Tate can take the credit for introducing many new drinkers to the region by way of its Margaret River Classic. Its fresh unwooded taste was a pleasant surprise when first made in 1987.
One of the best Semillon Sauvignon Blanc blends comes out of Alexandra Bridge, the region’s coolest vineyard. Rosé suits our climate well, and there’s a fun little number in Pitchfork Pink Cabernet, produced by Hay Shed Hill which also makes a great Shiraz. Cape Mentelle’s Georgiana blend is refreshing and affordable. It makes a great Chardonnay and Zinfandel, a red wine for macho drinkers. You’ll need to have a healthy bank account to buy Moss Wood’s fab Cabernet Sauvignon, but for a more affordable wine, try its Semillon or Cabernet Merlot. Xanadu makes consistently good wine including a racy Semillon Sauvignon Blanc and an outstanding Cabernet Reserve blend.

Hot tips:
The ancient Greek god Pan loved the good life so it is appropriate that his statue can be seen from Flutes restaurant in the idyllic Brookland Valley vineyard. The Margaret River Wine Region Festival, from November 18 to 21, has 75 wine and food events.

BLACKWOOD VALLEY

Where is it?
Around Nannup and Bridgetown, 270km south of Perth.

What grows best:
Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz.

Why it’s a winner:
It’s on the same latitude as Margaret River but further inland.

Names to look for:
Palandri takes fruit from here for its Baldivis Estate label, and the Houghton Wine Company has a winery at Nannup.

Hot tips:
Take a walk on the wild side with a llama from Blackwood Valley Llamas carrying your lunch.

MANJIMUP

Where is it?
300km south of Perth.

What grows best:
Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Verdelho.

Why it’s a winner:
Gravelly soil and a climate similar to Bordeaux.

Names to look for:
Chestnut Grove makes terrific Merlot and Verdelho, as well as some easy-drinking blends under its Tall Timber label.

Hot tips:
Manjimup is the birthplace of the Pink Lady apple. Pick your own fruit and nuts in season.

PEMBERTON

Where is it?
About 330km south of Perth, surrounded by towering Karri forests.

What grows best:
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon.

Why it’s a winner:
It shares the same weather and soil type as Margaret River. Paul Lapsley, group white winemaker for the Hardy Wine Company, says the region produces WA’s best Chardonnay.

Names to look for:
Salitage Wines’ cellar door is a showpiece for the region. Houghton makes a Pemberton Chardonnay.

Hot tip:
Enjoy Riesling with marron, a freshwater native crayfish with a sweet, delicate flavour. It’s a treat at local restaurants.

THE GREAT SOUTHERN

Where is it?
400km south-east of Perth. Even by Australian standards, it is large, stretching 150km from north to south and 200km across.

What grows best: Cabernet Sauvignon, Riesling, Chardonnay, Shiraz.

Why it’s a winner:
It has a variety of altitudes, climates and topography. Mount Barker is probably the most versatile sub-region in terms of varieties grown. Frankland and Porongurup produce wonderful limey Riesling. Denmark and Albany produce fine Chardonnay.

Names to look out for:
Alkoomi makes a great Riesling and a gutsy Shiraz. Nearby Ferngrove Vineyards Estate has had an impressive medal haul in its relatively short life. Its Semillon Sauvignon Blanc blend is lively and fresh, while its flagship Orchid range showcases the region’s best varieties. This year saw the first release of The Stirlings, a delicious blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. Frankland Estate and Gilberts Wines have spearheaded the region’s reputation for Riesling. Goundrey makes wine for all tastes and budgets. Its Unwooded Chardonnay is one of Australia’s biggest selling whites. Madfish Premium White and Madfish Premium Red are uncomplicated blends that go with many dishes. Plantagenet makes the easy-drinking Omrah range. Gavin Berry, who steered Plantagenet to success during 16 years as winemaker, has moved to West Cape Howe Wines.

Hot tips:
Choose a picnic spot overlooking the spectacular coastline near Albany. If you’re lucky, you might spot a whale while sipping on your favourite drop. Relax over a meal at the Observatory Restaurant in Denmark’s Karri Mia resort. It has breathtaking views and an excellent choice of local wines.

© Christine Salins

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