Fijian Dream

Parents magazine - Oct/Nov 1996

“How come all the other kids are allowed to have Happy Meals and I’m not?” pleaded my six-year-old daughter, Tamara. “Well you’re going to Fiji in a couple of days and they’re not,” I said in a weak attempt to steer her away from yet another helping of junk food. “I don’t care! I want a Happy Meal!” Is it a sign of the times that my children consider a trip overseas to be of no more importance than a meal at McDonald’s? I’m sure my three are not unique in their take-everything-for-granted approach to life. Despite my best efforts in trying to raise appreciative, undemanding children, I often feel like I’m losing the battle. It was, therefore, a great learning experience for Tamara, 6; Alise, nearly 5; and Benjamin, 18 months; to visit a country where people can barely afford to feed themselves, where home is a thatched-roof cottage or a corrugated iron shack, and where McDonald’s has not yet left its mark (although that is soon to change).

Unlike many people who visit the beautiful South Pacific islands of Fiji, our trip did not involve lazing about on a beach at an upmarket resort, although we did include the island experience in our itinerary. The real purpose of our trip was to visit my sister and her family who live in Suva, capital of Fiji, located on the south-east point of the main island, Viti Levu. We took a week on either side of the school vacation, giving us a month away - ample time to relax, enjoy being with our relatives and to immerse ourselves in what Fiji has to offer. The schooling Tamara missed was more than made up for by the tremendous insight she gained into another way of life. Both the girls wrote postcards to their classes and Tamara kept a “journal” which she proudly showed to her class on her return.

My sister hired a house-girl, Sala, to help with the children and her rapport with them was instantaneous. One of my fondest memories is of the very dark-skinned Sala pushing our blonde little boy backwards and forwards in the pram till he would fall asleep, something I never have to do at home. Yes, he had her well and truly wrapped around his little finger, and she loved every minute of it! The Fijians have a natural affinity with children, one factor which makes it such a great destination for frazzled families. (Another plus is the safe drinking water.) We undertook various day trips from Suva, as well as several two and three night excursions. While Ben spent most of his time indoors, out of the intense sun, the girls alternated between spending time with their cousins and accompanying us to local attractions.

One visit they enjoyed was to the Cultural Centre at Pacific Harbour, about an hour’s drive from Suva, where we travelled by boat along a river which winds its way around a re-created Fijian village. Here, there were demonstrations of pottery-making, weaving, tools and boat-making, and of particular interest to the kids, fire-making. It was a great lesson in resourcefulness and ingenuity. At Orchid Island, a smaller version of the Cultural Centre, they were fascinated to see a rock where people had their heads chopped off (cannibalism was rife pre-Christianity) and to hear of people being buried alive in temples as sacrifices to the gods. “Do they still do it now?” they kept asking. Much more scary than a movie!

Even visiting the shops was an experience, as we tried to teach the girls some of the intricacies of bargaining. We told them not to look too eager in order to get a better price, but this concept was one they never did really come to grips with, especially Tamara, for whom money burns a hole in the pocket. We ended up with an assortment of little trinkets, from seed bracelets to shell necklaces and even a grass skirt, which will no doubt come in handy for some future fancy dress. Fiji’s multiracial population (nearly half of the population is Indian) makes for some interesting shopping and we loved seeing the gorgeous Indian clothes with their beautiful fabrics and embellishments.

As a special treat, we bought Tamara a “salwar kameez”, an Indian outfit comprising a striking purple tunic and pants, the top decorated with gold brocade. Alise, our party girl, settled for one of the pretty party frocks that are so popular with Indian families. It is quite a sight seeing the little Indian children dressed up to the nines, skipping along dirt tracks and playing in the fields. Ben looks handsome in his miniature policeman’s outfit, an eye-catching uniform of black shirt and white sulu (skirt).

A highlight of our trip was hiring a four-wheel-drive for a day, so that we could negotiate the rough, winding road around the northern part of Viti Levu, passing through remote villages where time had stood still. Everywhere we went in Fiji, we saw people on the roadside selling fruit, vegetables and seafood, trying to scratch out a meagre income in order to get by. Fortunately the produce is plentiful in Fiji’s tropical climate, and the sea offers a bountiful supply of fish, mussels and other creatures.

We ended our stay with three nights at Naitasi resort on Malolo Island, where the girls had their first experience of snorkelling and were delighted to see a huge, vibrant blue starfish and lots of sea cucumbers. They had more fun chasing crabs by torchlight at night in a resort-organised activity. As we left Malolo, a party of musicians farewelled us with the same delightful strains that followed us around the country. Everywhere we went in Fiji, people waved and shouted “Bula” , which means hello. The friendliness of the Fijian people is infectious, and the kids were quick to notice that a smile costs nothing but pays dividends. That people can be so poor, in a material sense, and yet so happy was a humbling experience for all of us.

© Christine Salins

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