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Flutes Restaurant
Caves Road, Margaret River, Western Australia.
Out There magazine - Issue 13
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It is appropriate that a statue of Pan, the ancient Greek god who is said to have loved the good life, is framed by the view from Flutes. Nestled into Margaret River’s Brookland Valley vineyard, the restaurant is an idyllic spot to enjoy the good life. Malcolm and Dee Jones, who run the winery in partnership with the Hardy Wine Company, found the antique French bronze statue in Sydney decades ago. It is now a focal point of the estate, where visitors can explore a gallery of beautiful wine-related art while tasting the very pleasant Brookland Valley and Verse 1 wines.
Appetites sharpened, it is time to adjourn to Flutes, where Francois Morvan serves his regionally inspired cuisine.
For a short time early in the year, the highlight is Pemberton marron, a freshwater crayfish with a sweet, delicate flavour. It only grows naturally in this south-west corner of Western Australia, so when Morvan puts it on the menu with a simple green bean salad, it is number one off the rank. Still, it’s a hard choice, stacked up against locally grown venison with caramelized figs, and wild Kimberley barramundi.
There’s an Asian touch in the Thai noodle salad with fresh mango and palm-sugared cashews, and finally, some wonderful desserts such as a berry mousse roulade with an intriguing strawberry peppercorn sauce and a summer cherry tart. The “assiette” plate, combining small servings of all the desserts, is a must for those with a sweet tooth. Ah, yes, the good life.
© Christine Salins
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