Melbourne: Southern-style Indulgence

The Canberra Times Relax section – July 20, 2003

“There’s no need to feel guilty doing one of my tours because there’s walking in between,” says Suzie Wharton, of her very indulgent Chocolate Walking Tours around Melbourne. Wharton has three tours to choose from, each taking around two hours and guaranteeing generous tastings for chocolate lovers, as well as some fascinating insights into Melbourne history. She takes a maximum of 24 people on the tours and says they usually represent a very diverse group: “Being a chocoholic covers all ages.”

A chocoholic herself, the impossibly thin Wharton says having chocolate in the cupboard gives her a sense of well-being. She established her company, Talkabout Tours, after studying recreation marketing as a mature-age student. Wharton is a great ambassador for Melbourne, passing on lots of interesting snippets of information as she guides participants through quaint arcades and side alleys.

I love the delightful charm of these little back streets, and even the drizzling rain doesn’t put me off. It just makes the city feel even more European in character. Wharton will tailor-make walking tours on themes such as fashion, antique jewellery, fragrances and perfumes, but it is the chocolate tours that have everyone talking. One might be forgiven for thinking they are in Paris at the Laurent Boulangerie, where the tours usually start. Its cakes and petit fours are positively gorgeous! (There are five other Laurent outlets throughout Melbourne.)

On the way to the elegant Block Arcade, home to delicious Haigh’s Chocolates, Wharton drops into one of Melbourne’s oldest coffee shops, Quist’s, established in 1938. There might also be a quick peek at Suga, with its colourful confectionery. Another great tour is the Foodies Dream Tour of Queen Victoria Market, a two-hour walk highlighting the colour and excitement of the market, which was built 123 years ago, just 35 years after Melbourne was founded. Some of the stallholders have been there for three or four generations, such as Jago’s butchers and Prosser’s seafood shop. Look out for succulent oysters for $7 a dozen at Prosser’s.

“I have a food background and I love shopping here. The novelty never wears off,” says our guide Geraldine, who skilfully negotiates our way through the crowded trading areas. Not only are participants treated to generous samplings en-route, but everyone goes home armed with tips on selecting the best quality produce and even some of Geraldine’s cooking tips. Melbourne is a great foodie city, with fabulous restaurants that are more affordable than Sydney dining, and a month-long Food and Wine Festival held annually in March, at about the same time the city kicks up its heels with the Melbourne Fashion Festival.

The cooler months present no excuse for hibernating. If it’s designer clothes you are after, head for Collins Street in the city or Chapel St, Prahran. For the retro and recycled look, Brunswick Street might be more your scene. Tired of shopping? Rest and relax over a coffee at St Kilda, with its amazing selection of European cakes, or check out some of the great bars. The Melbourne Museum is a must-see with its presentations on everything from dinosaurs, science, mind and body, to Aboriginal life, historical Melbourne and icons such as the television soap, Neighbours, and the stuffed body of Phar Lap.

For more icons, Ned Kelly’s armour is one of the exhibits in the Old Melbourne Jail, while the Immigration Museum tells a vivid story of farewells and dislocation, journeys, reunions and welcomes. Melbourne Zoo and the combined Scienceworks/Planetarium offer fun for all ages. Melbourne has a vibrant theatre scene, with the Queen musical We Will Rock You due to begin at the Regent Theatre in August. It has been playing to sell-out houses in London.

The opulent and meticulously restored Regent is one of many beautiful classical buildings but the city is taking on an increasingly modern face, too, in entertainment precincts such as NewQuay and Federation Square. With its bold, geometric design, Federation Square has transformed a run-down area into a fresh and colourful space housing cafes, bars, shops and galleries including the Australian Centre for the Moving Image and the Ian Potter Centre. The latter has an outstanding collection of Australian art and entry is free. The square has done a brilliant job of connecting the city with the Yarra River, which has also undergone a transformation. Not so long ago, the river was scarcely an attraction. Now, vibrant developments flourish on its banks and they can even be reached by water taxi.

One of the hot new destinations is NewQuay, at Docklands. Among the restaurants, bars and cafes with prime water views is Mecca Bah, where Cath Claringbold serves superb Middle Eastern food in informal surrounds. The tagine-shaped open fireplace beckons in these chilly months. Further along the river, Tides restaurant, at the Pier 35 Marina in Port Melbourne, serves terrific seafood in a stylish dining room that spills out onto a huge deck overhanging the water.

Within an hour's drive of Melbourne, the Yarra Valley has more than 40 wineries to explore, and attractions such as the Healesville Sanctuary, hot-air ballooning, and a food and wine trail. A welcome addition to accommodation in the area is the Sebel Lodge Yarra Valley with its lavish day spa and Australia's only Jack Nicklaus signature golf course. For memorable food and wine in the valley, try Domaine Chandon, which offers a fascinating insight into the sparkling wine-making process, Rochford's Eyton cellar door/restaurant in a stunning setting, and the Healesville Hotel, where chef Richard Hauptmann serves fine food using the best local ingredients. Even the eggs are fresh from the farm.