Mount Buffalo: Mountain Chalet With Period Charm

Holiday and Travel News - Sept/Nov 1998

Silverware engraved with the initials “VR” dating from the time when Mount Buffalo Chalet was run by the Victorian Railways still graces the tables of this beautiful alpine resort. It is one of many quaint touches lending a period charm to the chalet, which is perched high atop a granite outcrop in north-east Victoria - a truly stunning location that has earned it the name “island in the sky”. There are days when the clouds hang so low that the chalet rises above them, a picture-postcard setting that was recognised last century by explorers and botanists who were captivated by the mountain’s amazing geological formations, alpine flora and far-reaching views.

The chalet opened in 1910, a sprawling timber structure that remains largely unchanged to this day, save for the addition of a few creature comforts. For most of its life, it was operated by the Victorian Railways and plenty of the fascinating bric-a-brac and memorabilia that remains from the period is still in use or on display at the chalet. The resort was privatised in 1993 and new owners Dean and Gillian Belle are nursing it back to health, gradually redecorating all the guest rooms and communal areas in a style that is sympathetic to the building’s original character.

The chalet pre-dates the development of Australia’s ski industry and hence is well-established as a year-round resort. Both summer and winter have their own appeal, with the warmer months offering plenty of opportunities for bush walking, cycling, horse-riding or relaxing in the pretty gardens. In winter, the mountain takes on a completely different character when it is blanketed with snow, drawing visitors to its downhill ski runs and cross-country trails. One of the oldest ski resorts in Australia, it lacks the challenging runs of some of the big alpine resorts but is perfect for those taking to their skis for the first time (or the first time in a long time).

The skiing activities are centred around Tatra Inn, which operates in conjunction with the chalet and is located about 6km further along the plateau. A regular shuttle bus service operates between the two. This year the resort introduced a new snowmaking system from Sweden, which uses less energy and can make snow at a warmer temperature in a shorter amount of time, resulting in a much more consistent cover. One of the resort’s biggest drawcards is its Skiing Begins at 40 program, which is now in its fourth season and allows even the most novice skiier to take to the slopes with confidence. While it can be disconcerting to see pint-sized children handling the whole thing with much greater aplomb, there is some consolation in knowing that there are other adults just as useless as you!

Lessons for the kids, friendly staff and the relaxed, not overly commercialised nature of the resort make it especially appealing for families, a feeling which is reinforced by the chalet, where children are not only accommodated but welcomed. During school holidays and every Saturday night, the kids are entertained with movies, games etc, and can eat with the staff so that their parents can dine in peace. The chalet is run like a traditional guest house with three meals a day included in the tariff. Not only are the servings generous - all that hard work on the slopes builds up an appetite - but the meals are something to look forward to ... creative enough to be interesting but successfully appealing to most tastes.

Accommodation at the chalet ranges from tower suites to ensuite rooms with and without views to rooms in the guest house wings where bathrooms are shared. Not all the rooms have benefitted from the decorative touch of the new owners, but all have good facilities and are deliciously warm. A bonus for single people is that there are some single rooms which don’t attract a supplementary charge. The feeling of the place is much like that of a country house - guests can curl up in front of an open fire with a good book, sip a port over a board game or enjoy a slide night in the beautiful old ballroom. What’s more, the staff seem to genuinely enjoy their jobs. Access to the resort is by a well-sealed, winding road from Porepunkah, near Bright, in north-east Victoria and for those with special interests, there is a continuous program of activities like winter photography workshops, craft weekends and astronomy weekends.

Information: Phone 1800 037 038.

© Christine Salins

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