The Wines Of South Australia

Vacations & Travel

It is hard to believe that less than 20 years ago, Barossa shiraz and riesling were made into sweet sherry and muffins. How times change. Today, the Barossa Valley is riding on the back of the booming Australian wine industry, its wines much in demand around the world. More than 70 per cent of the nation’s wine exports come from South Australia and the industry is vital to the state’s well-being. Food, and especially wine, are key attractions for visitors to South Australia, which justifiably lays claim to being Australia’s “wine state”.

Jewel in the crown is the Barossa Valley, not only because of its distinctive, blockbuster shiraz but also because of its rich historical and cultural heritage. Thankfully, some old vines survived a tragic vine-pull scheme of the late 1980s, and because the Barossa escaped the phylloxera which devastated other regions in Australia and overseas, it now boasts some of the oldest vines in the world. It is home not only to Grange, Australia’s most coveted wine, but also to many other rare and special wines.

One alternative for reaching the Barossa is to take the Barossa Wine Train (ph 08: 8212 7888), with its luxuriously refurbished 1950s rail carriages and comfortable reclining seats. It departs from Adelaide railway station every Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday, returning the same day after an optional lunch and tour of the Barossa. Wine tasters who want to do the day in style should consider touring with John Baldwin in one of his three Majestic Major Daimler limousines, brought to Australia for Royal tours in the 1960s. Each carries up to seven passengers and is air-conditioned and licensed. Tours are tailored to suit clients. (ph 08: 8524 9047).

A good time to visit the region is during the Barossa Vintage Festival, held every two years in April. Among the more than 100 events are a harvest market, grand parade, festival ball, and special lunches and dinners. A short drive from the Barossa brings visitors to the Eden Valley, where the considerably cooler climate produces magnificent riesling, rivalling those of the Clare Valley.

About two hours’ drive north of Adelaide, the Clare Valley is one of the most picturesque regions of South Australia, with quaint, historic towns and charming B & Bs and restaurants. An old railway line has been converted into a riesling trail which is a great way of exploring the region on foot or bike. Motorists travelling to Clare from Adelaide should watch carefully for the turn-off from the highway. It is not uncommon for some to whiz right on past and end up around the bulk-wine producing facilities of the Riverland.

The sheer scale of operations in the Riverland is mind-boggling, although some of the producers are now focusing more on quality rather than quantity. The awards they are winning speak for themselves. The Riverland could not be a greater contrast to the Limestone Coast and its fabled Coonawarra region, where a remarkable strip of terra rossa produces some of the finest cabernet sauvignon in Australia, if not the world. This strip of red soil, measuring just 14 km by up to 2 km, lies on top of limestone with abundant water underneath, magic conditions which allow the grapes to grow almost by themselves. The wines are characterized by a leafy, minty flavour with great depth.

Closer to Adelaide are the McLaren Vale and Langhorne Creek regions, on the scenic Fleurieu Peninsula, where the Mediterranean-like climate of cool winters and hot, dry summers is tempered by cooling breezes from St Vincent’ Gulf. Flagship of the region is shiraz, but chardonnay has also earned high praise. For a great introduction to the region, check out the McLaren Vale & Fleurieu Visitor Centre, which has its own little vineyard.

Many of the cafes and restaurants in the region feature local ingredients. Highly recommended is d’Arry’s Verandah where there is a great view of the d’Arenberg vineyard and the food is top-notch. McLaren Vale’s most popular event is its Wine Bushing Festival in October. Even closer to Adelaide are the Adelaide Plains wine region and the cooler Adelaide Hills where some especially elegant whites are being made.

© Christine Salins

Back to list of wine stories