Tantalising Taiwan

Vacations & Travel - Spring 2005

Taiwan is an enigma. With a population of more than 20 million crammed onto an island smaller than Tasmania, it is one of the world’s most densely populated and industrialised places, yet it boasts some truly spectacular scenery. It also presents considerable contrasts between old and new, reflecting one of the world’s oldest civilisations as it forges headlong into the 21st century with a thriving economy and a major role in international trade. Perhaps because of its peculiar political situation – in which it lays claim to the government of mainland China - it has clung fiercely to many age-old Chinese traditions.

Whereas many relics and traditions on the mainland were lost during the Cultural Revolution, in Taiwan they are stronger than ever. People still seek the comfort of the gods in temples, use firecrackers to ward off evil spirits, take part in religious processions and traditional festivities, and have faith in the herbal medicines that have been used for thousands of years. Temples, pagodas and shrines appear at almost every turn.

It all makes for a fascinating travel experience, yet many foreign visitors still come for business rather than pleasure. In fact, the island has numerous attractions, from historic remains to elaborate temples, picturesque scenery, hot springs and interesting coastal rock formations. Mountains and forests cover two-thirds of the island, their peaks frequently covered in mist. The island straddles the western edge of the Pacific “rim of fire”, the movements in the earth’s tectonic plates creating its majestic peaks, rolling hills and rugged coastline. In 1999, a monstrous earthquake devastated the region around Puli in central Taiwan.

Just south of Puli is the enchantingly named Sun Moon Lake, the largest lake in Taiwan. It takes its name from its shape - the northern part is supposedly as round as the sun, while the southern part of the lake arches as a crescent moon. In the rebuilding that took place after the earthquake, it acquired what is probably Taiwan’s most glamorous resort, The Lalu. Visitors can easily spend a couple of days exploring the region, and there are numerous nature trails for those who enjoy hiking. Swimming in the lake isn’t allowed – except, intriguingly, on a single day in summer when tens of thousands enter the water en masse – but a boat ride on the lake is a must.

One of the walking trails leads to the nine-storey Tsi An Pagoda perched high above the lake. Built by the late president Chiang Kai-Shek for his mother in 1971, it offers impressive views of the whole lake. There are some wonderful temples on the edge of the lake, the most striking being the Wen-wu Temple, built in the 1930s. The area around the lake is home to an aboriginal tribe, the Thao, who called the place Barawbaw. Their most important ceremony is held every August, when visitors can appreciate something of their culture as they dance to celebrate the year’s harvest while they pound their grain.

A short drive from the lake, Taiwan’s 10 aboriginal tribes are represented in the Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village, a 62ha open-air museum. At first glance, it’s a curious set-up with an amusement park and entry through a European-style palace garden. But once inside, it’s a fascinating insight into the culture of the aborigines, Malay-Polynesian people who settled on the island thousands of years ago. The nine areas in the village – one of the areas represents two tribes - have straw huts, granaries, kitchens, bridges and farms that were reproduced according to historical records. The aborigines demonstrate handcrafts and techniques such as planting crops and fermenting rice wine, and they perform songs and dances that have been passed down from generation to generation.

A visit to Sun Moon Lake can be combined with a drive over the Central Cross-Island Highway which winds its way from one side of the island to the other. It’s a remarkable stretch of scenery, not to mention an engineering feat, with countless bridges and tunnels hewn from solid rock. The drive is best undertaken on a guided tour or public transport, for it is not for the faint-hearted. The highlight is the last 19km, where the road winds its way down to the east coast through Taroko Gorge, sheer cliffs of marble and granite sweeping away to a white-water river that cascades its way through the canyon.

The stage for its creation was set around four million years ago, when one of the earth’s tectonic plates collided with another, creating the Central Mountain Range and forcing deep marble deposits to rise sharply to the surface. The marble was gradually eroded by the Liwu River, thus forming the gorge. Scientists believe that continuous erosion by the river is deepening the gorge at a rate of five millimeters a year. Just above the entrance to the gorge, straddling a waterfall, the Eternal Spring Shrine was built as a memorial to the 450 workers who died building the highway.

Construction of the road was completed in 1960. Among the most spectacular viewing spots in the gorge are the Swallow Grotto and Tunnel of Nine Turns. Swallows can be seen flying in the area in spring and summer, but despite the name, no evidence has been found of them nesting in the holes in the cliff face. A good walking trail is the 1.9km long Tunnel of Nine Turns Trail, which takes about 30 minutes each way at a leisurely pace. Part of the old highway and suitable for people of all ages, it’s a great way to enjoy the scenery, the rich flora and the effects of the wind patterns in the gorge.

Interestingly, there are not actually nine turns in the tunnel. The number nine simply stands for “many”. The tunnel is the longest on the highway and is located at one of the steepest sections of the gorge, which in some places is so narrow you can’t see the sky. Sections of the Nine Turns tunnel are open, revealing heart-stopping sheer drops and craggy rocks. The most popular rest stop on the Central Cross-Island Highway is Tiansiang, a lovely little resort town at the top of the gorge. There’s a good hotel here, the Grand Formosa Taroko, and there are plenty of walks nearby, including one to the Wenshan hot springs.

Both Tiansiang and the east-coast city of Hualien are serviced by public transport and tours from Taipei, the tours inevitably including a stop at one of the numerous marble shops. Huge marble deposits were discovered during the construction of the highway, with the result that there’s a booming industry in the product, though thankfully the gorge itself is spared, since it is a national park. Hualien lives up to the mantle of “City of Marble” bestowed on it by local tourist authorities, featuring the stone prominently in hotels and public buildings.

Some of the footpaths are even paved with marble, and to show gratitude for its abundance, the opulent Temple of Eastern Purity has been built almost exclusively of the stuff. The rugged landscape and isolation of the east coast has allowed it to escape much of the industrialization and urbanization that has occurred elsewhere in Taiwan. Looking at the dramatic coastline, with its towering cliffs, jagged rocks and mountains falling away sharply to the Pacific Ocean, it’s easy to see why for centuries the island was known to the West as Formosa, a Portuguese word meaning “beautiful”.

FACT FILE

Getting there:
China Airlines flies to Taipei from Sydney and Brisbane. Ph (02) 9231 3336.
EVA flies to Taipei from Sydney and Brisbane. Ph (02) 9313 5199.
Singapore Airlines and Cathay Pacific fly to Taiwan through Singapore and Hong Kong.

Getting around:
There is excellent public transport by air, road and rail, but a lack of English signs makes getting around difficult. Visitors are best advised to take organised tours. There are many excellent and reasonably priced tours available, ranging from half a day to one week. These can generally be booked at the hotel reception desk, but for longer tours, visitors should book before their departure from Australia. Taxi fares are affordable, but ask a receptionist to write your destination in both English and Chinese, as most drivers do not speak English.

When to go:
Summers last from May to September and are warm to hot, winters short and mild lasting from December to February. Humidity is high all year round. The rainy season is said to be May to June, but during my visit in February it rained or threatened rain every day for three weeks.

Visas:
Australian passport holders can now travel without a visa if their stay is 30 days or less. Information on visas can be obtained from the Taipei Economic and Cultural Office in Canberra. Ph (02) 6120 1000 or www.teco.org.au

Accommodation and tourist information:
Taiwan Travel Service: Ph (02) 9283 1711 or www.taiwants.com.au

© Christine Salins

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