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Regal Man Of Mystery
Hospitality - February 2005
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“A little mystique is always quite important,” says Colin Scott, master blender for Chivas Regal whisky. Not only is he not revealing how many whiskies go into the blend, but he won’t even let on how old he was when he had his first taste of whisky.
All he will say is that it was when he was a boy standing beside his mother in the kitchen. As she was making marmalade, she would cover the jar with paper soaked in whisky before sealing it.
Scott’s father and grandfather worked in the whisky industry and Scott says he probably always had a desire to follow them into the business. Yet he studied to be an accountant before realizing that whisky was his calling.
Having worked with Chivas Brothers for more than 30 years, Scott is a legend in the industry, one of his major tasks being to hand-select a “nose” for all the Chivas whiskies. It’s a brand name that commands respect in more than 150 countries.
“Chivas Regal has what I would call a comfort zone. About every second a bottle is being opened somewhere,” he said.
He reputedly has his nose ensured for well over $1 million, although he was coy on this point too when it was mentioned by the company’s Australian representative at a tasting in Sydney late last year (2004).
Whatever the case may be, Scott clearly has a good nose, for at least half of his judgement is based on aroma. His palate, experience and memory are other attributes he draws on when choosing whiskies that will go into the blend.
Founded in Scotland in 1801, Chivas Brothers has an enviable inventory of more than 100 aged whiskies it can draw on – malts from every region of Scotland and fine grain whiskies, each with their own individual characteristics.
“Technically, a blend just has to have one single malt and one single grain. The number moves around a little but in general terms a blended Scotch whisky contains between 20 and 40 whiskies. There’s whiskies from all over Scotland in Chivas Regal but the numbers do change.”
What IS precise is the determination to maintain a particular house style, described by Scott as “rounded, rich and smooth”.
Whereas the Chivas Regal 12 has apple notes and a slight fruitiness, Chivas Regal 18 is “more like rich fruit cake”.
Tastings are done blind to ensure the recipe blends remain consistent, so that consumers always know what to expect.
“A lot of whiskies in the 18 are from distilleries that are no longer in existence. Some of the whiskies that are in here today won’t be in it in the future, and that’s where the art of blending comes in, because if you take something out you change the taste. That’s my job (to guarantee the taste stays the same).”
Scott visited Australia to promote Chivas Regal 18, relaunched with new packaging and the name Gold Signature. Each bottle carries his signature embossed in gold. Among the whiskies that go into the 18 are two special malts, Strathisla and Longmorn.
Strathisla, the oldest operating distillery in the Scottish Highlands, and the first distillery bought by Chivas Brothers in 1950, produces a rich, fruity malt with a hint of nuttiness.
Longmorn whiskies have long been prized for their rich, floral notes, length and mellow finish. Both are bottled in very small quantities as single malts, but as 18 year olds, are reserved exclusively to add exceptional richness to Chivas Regal 18.
Although many purists say they only drink whisky neat, Scott usually drinks his with water and says that in Australia he might even add ice.
“Adding water takes away the nose prickle - the peppery spirit taste - and then you can start seeing the different characters. Some people put whisky in their tea for breakfast. There are no rules. The best time (to drink it) is with friends, to relax, have fun. For after dinner, I’d recommend some Chivas 18 and even a cigar,” he said.
“I just love 18. … 12’s a fabulous drink but if I had to have one last drink, it’d be Chivas 18. It’d be a good way to go.”
© Christine Salins
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