Wine Features

Yalumba @ Royal Canberra Golf Club

by Christine Salins on May 18, 2012

Jane Ferrari

Jane Ferrari (photo courtesy of Yalumba Wine Company)

You’d have to say the judges got it right when they named Jane Ferrari Wine Communicator of the Year. The award, announced by the Wine Communicators of Australia in February, couldn’t have gone to a more deserving person. If you’ve ever seen Jane work the floor at a wine dinner, you’ll know what I mean.

Put simply, this girl’s a professional who has people eating out of her hand as she regales them with stories about her travels, Australian wine and especially about Yalumba, the company she works for. (She might even throw in some commentary about football and country music too.)

Everyone loves her and that was obvious at the Royal Canberra Golf Club’s Yalumba wine dinner as we sipped our way through some beautiful Viognier (Eden Valley & The Virgilius), the up and coming Vermentino (Y Series) and classics such as The Menzies and The Signature.

Jane is a winemaker herself, although these days she spends more time talking about wine than making it. And when Jane says The Signature 2006 is the best since 1996, who are we to argue?

But I’m getting ahead of myself, for the wine was a backdrop for some pretty amazing cooking by Royal Canberra Golf Club chef Neil Abrahams.

The club holds regular wine dinners and they’re obviously a great opportunity for the kitchen team to spread their wings and do some really exciting food.

The 5-course menu had some very exciting elements such as a piece of pork belly enclosed in a crispy fried prawn. It sounds odd but worked surprisingly well, with the prawn complemented by a terrine of lobster and ocean trout, crab quenelles and a dollop of beetroot and passionfruit jam.

This last addition was an inspired one and drew a lot of compliments from diners. Neil, I want the recipe!

It was clear from the seamless wine and food matches that the chef had tasted the wines before deciding on his menu. The beetroot and passionfruit jam, for example, was included because its fruity character complemented the fruity Viognier. It also added some acid to offset the richly flavoured seafood.

The Cigar Cabernet Sauvignon was described by Jane as Yalumba’s “stealth weapon … to introduce people to what Coonawarra can do”. It was paired with a deliciously sweet tender cutlet of goat, baked figs, and a confit of goat shoulder and truffle pie. Another winner.

Neil thought The Signature Cabernet Shiraz and the Hand Picked Shiraz Viognier screamed out for beef, and because he wanted something a bit gamey, went for oyster blade, which he slow-roasted for two hours at 58 degrees C. Yum, yum and yum.

With flavours of lemon and quince, the dessert was titled “Autumn Delicia”, the latter a Spanish word for “delight”. That it was, and indeed the whole meal was one to savour.

Put the Royal Canberra Golf Club’s upcoming wine dinners in your diary. The next is a St Hallett wine and truffle dinner on June 15, at which senior winemaker Stuart Blackwell will be the guest speaker. Surely one not to be missed.

Contact:  +61 2 6282 7000 or  www.royalcanberra.com.au

To see the Yalumba menu in full, click here

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Woodstock Coterie

by Christine Salins on February 29, 2012

Sticky Pork Belly Recipe

In the early 1800s, when European explorers were assessing South Australia’s McLaren Vale region for future farming, they noted that the “wide valley … gave promise of much beauty and fertility”.

They were right on both counts, for it would have to be one of the country’s prettiest wine regions, with rolling hills and the sea as a backdrop.

The Mediterranean-like climate of cool winters and hot, dry summers tempered by cooling breezes from the sea ripens not just grapes but a great array of produce such as almonds, olives, avocados, stone fruits and berries.

Woodstock Estate proprietor Scott Collett continues a winemaking tradition started by his father Doug more than 30 years ago.

The winery’s Coterie restaurant nestles among century-old gum trees, with rammed earth walls and glass windows and doors framing the native garden.

Executive chef Nigel Munzberg has worked at various 5-star hotels and iconic restaurants in South Australia, including Magill Estate, Blake’s Restaurant at the Hyatt and Grange Jetty Kiosk.

Scott Collett is responsible for Woodstock’s fortified wines, and assists winemaker Ben Glaetzer in making the table wines, including their superb flagship Shiraz, The Stocks.

Munzberg has provided the following recipes for dishes from his contemporary Australian menu.

The Sticky Pork Belly is a labour of love but oh so worth it.

More information: www.woodstockwine.com.au

Foamed Prawn Bisque SauceFOAMED PRAWN BISQUE SAUCE
Serves 10-12 at 60ml per serve
100ml olive oil
300g prawn heads (shells washed/oven roasted)
12 shallots, peeled & sliced
1 leek washed, cleaned & sliced
1 stick celery, washed & finely chopped
2 carrots, peeled & finely chopped
4 tomatoes, diced
4 tbs tomato paste
2 tsp Cognac/Brandy
200ml Woodstock Chardonnay/White Wine
1000ml fish stock
500 ml thickened cream
1 bay leaf
pinch of saffron threads
sea salt & white pepper to taste
Heat half of the olive oil in a saucepan and sauté the prawn heads and shells, until they are golden in colour. Put to one side.
In another saucepan, heat the remaining olive oil and add shallots & leek. Sauté until golden in colour then add the celery, carrot and the tomato and continue to sauté until the vegetables achieve the same colour.
Add the tomato paste, prawn heads/shells, bay leaf, pinch of saffron threads and sweat off until the paste starts to stick to the bottom of the saucepan. At this point, de-glaze the saucepan with the Cognac/Brandy. Once the pan has been de-glazed, add the white wine and fish stock & simmer to reduce to a third.
Add thickened cream and bring to the boil. Reduce to desired consistency.
Using a stab mixer with a sharp blade, puree until it starts to look like a sauce.
Strain through a coarse sieve and then a fine sieve to remove any shell so you are left with a smooth creamy sauce.
Place back into a clean saucepan; bring sauce to the boil, season to taste, blitzing with a stab mixer just before serving to aerate the sauce.

STICKY PORK BELLY
Serves 4

1 kg piece of pork belly
3 litres Asian stock
1 quantity sticky soy caramel
1 quantity lime and chilli dressing
500ml peanut or sunflower oil

Asian Stock
3½ litres chicken stock
1 large knob of ginger (about 50g), peeled
6 garlic cloves, smashed
2 star anise
2 green chillies, split
2 cinnamon sticks
Zest of 4 oranges
400ml Chinese Shao Xing rice wine
500ml light soy sauce
500ml dark soy sauce
300g palm sugar
Combine all the ingredients in a large casserole dish or saucepan and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and allow to simmer uncovered for 20 minutes.
Check taste balance: add more soy sauce if you prefer it saltier, more sugar if it should be sweeter or add more Chinese wine for a more aromatic flavour.
Remove from the heat, allow to cool in an ice-filled sink, and then strain into a suitable container. Refrigerate for up to 1 week, or freeze for up to 1 month.

Sticky Soy Caramel
Makes 125ml
125ml light soy sauce
125ml fish sauce
500g palm sugar
75ml water
1 tbs chilli  flakes
Place all ingredients into a saucepan, bring to the boil and cook down to a caramel-like consistency. Remove from the heat and pass through a fine sieve into a suitable container and refrigerate for up to 1 month.

Lime and Chilli Dressing
Makes about 250ml
250ml peanut oil
3 garlic cloves, thinly shaved
30g dried shrimps
Juice of 15 limes or 275ml lime juice
5 bird’s eye chillies
1 bunch of mint
300g caster sugar
1 tbs fish sauce
Heat oil in a wok or suitable pan to 180˚C. Line a tray with paper towels.
Once the oil is the correct temperature, shallow-fry the garlic on a spatula or spoon until almost golden, then remove. Fry shrimps in the same way.
Combine garlic and shrimps with lime juice, chillies, mint, sugar and fish sauce in a food processor and liquidise. Adjust seasoning if necessary and pass through a fine sieve. Refrigerate dressing if required.

Thai Herb Salad
½ green papaya, peeled and finely sliced
1 large carrot, julienned
75g peanuts
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 long red chillies, deseeded and julienned
2 red onions, halved and finely sliced
1 bunch spring onions, finely sliced on the angle
½ bunch Thai basil leaves, diced
½ bunch mint, leaves only
½ bunch coriander, leaves only
Cook the pork the day before you intend to serve the dish. Cover the pork belly with the prepared Asian stock in a heavy-based roasting tray. Place greaseproof paper with a small weight on the top to keep the pork submerged during the cooking process. Bring to the boil. Simmer very gently for 3 to 4 hours in the oven at 160˚C. When cooked, the pork should be very soft and gelatinous to touch.
Drain the pork (reserving the stock in the refrigerator for future use) and put it onto a tray. Place a sheet of greaseproof paper on the top on the pork, followed by another tray and heavy weight. Allow to cool then refrigerate overnight. This ensures the pork cools flat and evenly, which will enable you to cut it into even portions.
Prepare the Sticky Soy Caramel and Lime and Chilli Dressing.
Lightly roast the peanuts in peanut oil in a frying pan over a constant low heat until golden-brown. Drain, season and chop finely.
Heat the Sticky Soy Caramel in a saucepan over a medium heat until the consistency will coat the back of a spoon. Keep warm, covered with a lid.
Remove the pork from the refrigerator and trim any fatty excess from the sides, so you are left with a perfect rectangle. Cut the pork into cubes, about 3 to 4 per person.
Baste the pork with the caramel and place skin side down on a non-stick pan, then into a hot oven for 8 to 10 minutes.
Toss together the carrot, chillies, onions and herbs with the Lime and Chilli Dressing and place on long narrow serving plates.
Place the pork skin side up on top of the salad, then sprinkle with the roasted peanuts and drizzle over a little more Lime and Chilli Dressing.

Enjoy with 2009 Woodstock Cabernet Sauvignon.

Recipe courtesy of Nigel Munzberg, inspired by the Botanical Restaurant, Melbourne.

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Bicycle Short Film Night at Four Winds Vineyard

by Christine Salins on February 27, 2012

Four Winds Vineyard Sunset

If Four Winds Vineyard had held its Bicycle Short Film Night a week earlier, it would have been a washout.  A ferocious hailstorm passed through the area, sparing the vines but causing huge damage to a couple of nearby vineyards.

On this Saturday just past, it was a totally different story – the day was warm and sunny, and even after the sun went down, it was very pleasant indeed. What’s more, we were rewarded with the most spectacular sunset over the vines.

This was the second year that the Lunney family has held their Bicycle Short Film Night. It looks set to become an annual event.

Bicycle Short Film Evening at Four Winds Vineyard

The night is held as part of Donate Life Week, a cause that is close to their heart after losing their son Tom two years ago while he was on the waiting list for a heart-lung transplant.

All the family were involved in the film evening, including Graeme and Suzanne’s daughters, winemaker Jaime Crowe and business manager Sarah Collingwood; Jaime’s winemaker husband Bill, and Sarah’s husband John, who manages the vineyard.

Their easy-drinking Alinga 2009 Sangiovese went down a treat with pasta, which we ate while sitting on hay bales, watching the sun go down. I also really love Four Winds’ 2011 Riesling. The variety thrives in this region and the result is a crisp, elegant wine with lively citrus notes.

Donate For Life cupcakesThere were cute little cupcakes, courtesy of Donate Life, and fabulous chocolate brownies, freshly baked in the Lunney kitchen to a recipe that Suzanne has been perfecting for years.

I can’t begin to tell you how good the Brownies were, and if you scroll through to the end of this post, you’ll find the recipe.

A few keen souls arrived at the vineyard in Murrumbateman by bike – fitting, as the films were all bicycle-themed.

Bicycle Short Film Evening at Four Winds Vineyard

Among the films were Smile for Future, which follows two BMX riders as they bring joy to kids in Japan’s tsunami affected region; a mountain bike flick called Follow Me; Little Green Bike from the Toward CarFree Cities Conference; and a short doco on Deadly Treadlies, a project that provided bikes for Indigenous communities in central Australia.

As we watched the films on the big outdoor screen, the sky was streaked with ribbons of pink, gold and red. Here’s how it changed over the course of an hour.

Sunset at Four Winds Vineyard

Sunset at Four Winds Vineyard

Sunset at Four Winds Vineyard

Now isn’t that just something? We really are blessed with beautiful sunsets in this part of the world.

Sarah reminded us that while Australia is a world leader for successful transplant outcomes, it has one of the lowest organ donation rates in the developed world.

That’s why it’s so important to register on the Australian Organ Donor Register and to make your wishes known to your family. See www.donatelife.gov.au for more details.

Four Winds Vineyard is at 392 Murrumbateman Road, a half hour drive north of Canberra. www.fourwindsvineyard.com.au

CHOCOLATE BROWNIES
190g butter
280g dark chocolate, chopped
1½ cups caster sugar
3 tsp vanilla essence
3 eggs
1½ cups plain four
¾ cup chopped walnuts
Grease a deep 19cm square cake pan, line base with paper; grease paper.
Melt butter and chocolate in a saucepan over hot water.  Transfer mixture to a large bowl.
Stir in sugar and essence then eggs, sifted flour and pecans.
Pour mixture into prepared pan, bake in moderate over for about 30 minutes, cool in pan.

Recipe courtesy of Four Winds Vineyard.

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