Chefs

Yalumba @ Royal Canberra Golf Club

by Christine Salins on May 18, 2012

Jane Ferrari

Jane Ferrari (photo courtesy of Yalumba Wine Company)

You’d have to say the judges got it right when they named Jane Ferrari Wine Communicator of the Year. The award, announced by the Wine Communicators of Australia in February, couldn’t have gone to a more deserving person. If you’ve ever seen Jane work the floor at a wine dinner, you’ll know what I mean.

Put simply, this girl’s a professional who has people eating out of her hand as she regales them with stories about her travels, Australian wine and especially about Yalumba, the company she works for. (She might even throw in some commentary about football and country music too.)

Everyone loves her and that was obvious at the Royal Canberra Golf Club’s Yalumba wine dinner as we sipped our way through some beautiful Viognier (Eden Valley & The Virgilius), the up and coming Vermentino (Y Series) and classics such as The Menzies and The Signature.

Jane is a winemaker herself, although these days she spends more time talking about wine than making it. And when Jane says The Signature 2006 is the best since 1996, who are we to argue?

But I’m getting ahead of myself, for the wine was a backdrop for some pretty amazing cooking by Royal Canberra Golf Club chef Neil Abrahams.

The club holds regular wine dinners and they’re obviously a great opportunity for the kitchen team to spread their wings and do some really exciting food.

The 5-course menu had some very exciting elements such as a piece of pork belly enclosed in a crispy fried prawn. It sounds odd but worked surprisingly well, with the prawn complemented by a terrine of lobster and ocean trout, crab quenelles and a dollop of beetroot and passionfruit jam.

This last addition was an inspired one and drew a lot of compliments from diners. Neil, I want the recipe!

It was clear from the seamless wine and food matches that the chef had tasted the wines before deciding on his menu. The beetroot and passionfruit jam, for example, was included because its fruity character complemented the fruity Viognier. It also added some acid to offset the richly flavoured seafood.

The Cigar Cabernet Sauvignon was described by Jane as Yalumba’s “stealth weapon … to introduce people to what Coonawarra can do”. It was paired with a deliciously sweet tender cutlet of goat, baked figs, and a confit of goat shoulder and truffle pie. Another winner.

Neil thought The Signature Cabernet Shiraz and the Hand Picked Shiraz Viognier screamed out for beef, and because he wanted something a bit gamey, went for oyster blade, which he slow-roasted for two hours at 58 degrees C. Yum, yum and yum.

With flavours of lemon and quince, the dessert was titled “Autumn Delicia”, the latter a Spanish word for “delight”. That it was, and indeed the whole meal was one to savour.

Put the Royal Canberra Golf Club’s upcoming wine dinners in your diary. The next is a St Hallett wine and truffle dinner on June 15, at which senior winemaker Stuart Blackwell will be the guest speaker. Surely one not to be missed.

Contact:  +61 2 6282 7000 or  www.royalcanberra.com.au

To see the Yalumba menu in full, click here

{ 0 comments }

The Heat Is On

by Christine Salins on February 8, 2012

Culinary Olympics Practice RunEvery four years, there are the Olympic Games, the Paralympics and the Winter Olympics, but you might be surprised to know that there is also a Culinary Olympics. What’s more, it’s taken just as seriously, right down to the competitors marching into the stadium in their national teams.

The world’s largest professional competition for chefs and pâtissiers, the event is organised by the World Association of Chefs’ Societies, which represents more than 10 million chefs worldwide.

This year’s event will be held in Erfurt, Germany, from October 6 to 9. The Culinary Olympics have gained a reputation for setting trends and benchmarks, and to take out a medal in the competition is a very high honour.

Australia has a good track record in the competition, with both the junior and senior teams finishing in the top 10 in the world in the 22nd Culinary Olympics in 2008. The junior team came sixth with a gold and a silver medal, while the senior team finished ninth with two gold, one silver and a bronze.

Can this year’s Australian team top that? They’re certainly giving it their best shot, and after tasting the results of their second practice run, I think they’ll do a great job of defending our culinary reputation.

I was a guest of the National Press Club, which hosted Monday night’s dinner where Shane Keighley (Qld, Captain), Shannon Kellam (Qld), Steve Clarke (WA), Jennie Key (SA), Royston Clark (WA), Patrick Carlin (WA), Matt McBain (Vic, pastry team), Dan Hurley (ACT) and Che Tam Nguyen (WA) prepared the three-course menu they plan to do in Germany.

Australian Culinary TeamThey had spent the previous two days prepping at the National Convention Centre, whose executive chef, Mike Scheumann, is president of the ACT chapter of the Australian Culinary Federation.

The dinner was organised by the Federation to raise much-needed funds to send the team to Germany, as well as gain valuable feedback.

The three courses were incredibly intricate so it’s almost impossible to describe them without listing a huge number of ingredients, but here’s a summary of what we enjoyed:

EntreeEntrée: Lemon sole soufflé, kipfler potato and fennel pollen crisp, apple cured and smoked Tasmanian salmon (out of this world delicious!) and cucumber terrine.

Main DishMain dish: Dorper lamb loin wrapped in pancetta, milk-poached kidney, gremolata-crusted sweetbread, wild mushroom polenta, beetroot glazed shallot. (Beautifully matched with Serafino 2009 Shiraz from McLaren Vale.)

DessertDessert: Chocolate and raspberry bar, chocolate pudding, strawberry macaron (filled with strawberry gelato, a nice twist) and other yummy morsels.

According to team manager Patrick O’Brien, the team members were being assessed on Monday night as only six would be able to compete in the hot kitchen team in Germany, and they were looking for the “best fit”.

The selection process is, understandably, rigorous as the chefs will work in a five metre by four metre space, with just five hours to prepare a three-course meal for 110 people, as well as a buffet table displaying their work.

Other team members will have duties in the cold table team. All up, a total of 21 people will be going to Germany, with a full complement of senior, junior and pastry teams.

It’s a huge job raising sponsorship as the expense of getting three teams to Germany is enormous. According to the president of the Australian Culinary Federation, Peter Wright, they are about a quarter of the way towards their goal.

I’m sure they’d appreciate any extra help so do contact the Australian Culinary Foundation if you’d like to get involved.

Peter Wright has a broad vision of where he’d like to take the Culinary Federation. “One of our big goals is to drive the future of Australian culinary arts,” he said.

“We have a shortage of chefs in this country; what we’re trying to do is give these chefs an avenue to stay in the industry so they’ll be the leaders of the future.”

 

{ 7 comments }