Getting There

Starry, Starry Night

by Christine Salins on January 2, 2012

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On board the cruise ship, Zaandam, I’m enjoying some quiet moments in the library during our days at sea. It’s a great library, certainly the best of any of the cruise ships I’ve sailed on.

I’m not so enamoured of some of the other venues on the ship – the seats in the main theatre, the Mondriaan Lounge, are untiered and not very comfortable, while the Canaletto purports to be a fine dining Italian restaurant but, cheekily, the space has simply been carved out of the buffet restaurant and the food is better at my local Italian in Canberra.

The library, however, is a class act. It’s got great big leather lounges poised in front of big glass windows so you can be lulled by the ship’s rhythm as you watch the great expanse of the ocean gently unfold. Each picture window has a poinsettia on the ledge, a nice festive touch.

There are plenty of computers to help you stay in touch with the outside world and the neighbouring Explorations Cafe sells a range of specialty coffees – a great idea if the coffee wasn’t so ordinary!

The shelves are crammed with a wonderful selection of board games, magazines and books on a diverse array of topics – travel, art, food etc etc. I could happily sit here all day if there weren’t so many other things to do. Ah, the demands of shipboard life…

One of the books I’ve borrowed from the library – how cool is it to be able to borrow books? – is Far Flung and Well Fed: The Food Writing of R.W.Apple Jr. It’s a collection of stories by the late New York Times reporter, R.W. (“Johnny”) Apple, who wrote so eloquently about his epicurean adventures around the globe.

It’s the perfect book to read on board as each story is a bite-sized morsel that can easily be devoured when you can barely stay awake after a shore excursion to some exotic port of call or a busy day on board the ship – I did say this shipboard life is a demanding one, didn’t I?

In his introduction to the book, Apple writes that the French are the world’s master chefs, “although the Australians, with their magnificent raw materials and stunning ability to blend East and West, are giving the French a run for their money lately”.

I’ve had cause to reflect on that over the past week of sailing on board the Zaandam because I think we Aussies have come to expect a high standard of dining as a result. And I don’t think the ship has always delivered the 5-star experience that its price tag suggests.

Certainly the menus are pretty amazing with a wide choice of beautifully presented dishes – including roast goose on Christmas eve – but there’s a blandness to many of the dishes (without the robust Asian flavours that Aussies have come to love), too many dishes have been overcooked and I’m not sure how much sourcing of Australian product there’s been.

I don’t think I’ve ever seen such tiny scallops and the shrimp are small, watery things – not the big succulent sweet prawns that would be more fitting as we sail these tropical waters.

Some of the best dishes on the menu have been the simplest, like the French onion soup which is a menu staple. And despite all the elaborate dishes, like the lobster thermidor we had on New Year’s Eve, I reckon the best meal we’ve had so far was the one we had last night.

A simple rib eye of beef, it was perfectly cooked with a nice crust on the outside and nicely pink on the inside. Succulent and juicy, flavoursome meat with a delicious jus.

Dessert bowled me over too. A delicate raspberry mousse, it wasn’t too sweet or creamy but just a lovely wobbly little number with the unmistakable taste of summer raspberries. It was served with a little chocolate soldier – a sweet touch and a nice surprise.

The Rotterdam dining room is very grand and its name is significant for me, as my late dad was born in Rotterdam. We shared a big table with strangers who had interesting stories to tell, and in the centre of the table was a gorgeous flower arrangement of fresh carnations and lillies.

High above us, the ceiling twinkled with little stars. This is definitely the good life.

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Christmas With A Dutch Touch

by Christine Salins on December 25, 2011

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Deck the halls with boughs of holly …

Everyone on the Zaandam knows Christmas has arrived because the halls are decked, not exactly with holly but certainly with lots of Yuletide paraphernalia.

We set sail from Sydney on the evening of December 23 on Holland America Line’s 16-night Great Barrier Reef Explorer cruise to Singapore.

It’s not a particularly big ship as far as cruise ships go, with just over 1400 passengers on board. At various times, such as when we’re strolling around the promenade deck late at night, it seems like we are the only people on board.

At other times, such as during the mad scramble for a dinner table, it feels very crowded indeed. We’ve yet to get the hang of this “open” dining system which doesn’t seem to be very open at all, as whenever our little group wants a table, they always seem to be booked.

We’re in the bowels of the ship, on deck one, in a windowless stateroom – our choice as we only plan to be in our room to sleep and the money can be better spent elsewhere.

We have a spacious bathroom and loads of cupboard space but the king-sized bed is two single beds pushed together – and it feels like it. It’s very comfortable unless you want to cross the divide.

The decor of our stateroom is unremarkable and not in keeping with the public areas of the ship, which are more elegant. The ship has a musical theme, with Bill Clinton’s saxophone and Freddie Mercury’s guitar among the instruments on display.

I love the giant Dutch organ in the atrium and, with Dutch-Australian blood flowing through my veins, I’m feeling very at home with Captain Scoonhoven at the helm, the Dutch flag flying on the ship’s mast, and the many Dutch touches around the ship, especially those with a Christmas theme.

There are clogs decorated with pictures of Saint Nick, Christmas trees festooned with blue and white Delft ornaments, and a mini village of gabled canal houses around the organ in the atrium. Yes, I feel right at home!

Christmas lunch was a fairly subdued affair while the ship was docked in Brisbane – clearly management are unaware that for most Aussies, Christmas lunch is a big deal.

Much more effort went into Christmas dinner which included roast turkey with all the trimmings, but it was the usual hassle to get a table.

By the time we were seated, it was around 8.30 and the ship had left the sanctuary of the Brisbane River and was entering choppy waters – so choppy that plates were flying everywhere and Titanic images started coming to mind.

The crockery in the Rotterdam dining room is an elegant white with navy blue and gold trim, and I shudder to think how many plates were lost this Christmas evening.

Now, as we sail north, the reef promises shelter and the captain, with his calm, reassuring manner, doesn’t seem concerned about a couple of cyclones hanging around northern Australia.

So here we are, all at sea. Merry Christmas.

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River Dreaming

by Christine Salins on November 27, 2008

Published in Cruise World, Autumn 2008.

Travelling the great rivers of Europe is like opening a treasure chest. Each time you discover something exquisite, something even more beautiful catches your eye.

From medieval towns with cobbled streets and half-timbered houses, to hillsides lined with vineyards and castles, there is fairytale scenery at every turn. Experiencing it from a small cruise ship allows you to enjoy the comforts of a five-star hotel without having to unpack your bags at each destination.

From beautifully preserved Rothenburg to Cologne with its magnificent cathedral and the colourful canals of Amsterdam, Europe is a treat for anyone interested in history, architecture or just simply beautiful scenery.

Trafalgar Uniworld’s European Serenade, a 13-day cruise from Vienna to Amsterdam that can also be done in reverse, takes in three spectacular rivers: the Danube, Main and Rhine. Also included is the Main-Danube Canal, a feat of modern engineering. It’s fascinating to see how the ship negotiates the narrow locks.

Romantics love the Rhine, especially the section around Rüdesheim where the scenery is so spectacular it has World Heritage listing. Narrow and once quite treacherous – hence the legend of the Lorelei, about a siren luring sailors to their death – this busy working river is little challenge for the Grand River Empress (Countess???) and the Grand River Duchess.

So gentle do these long, sleek vessels cruise that you sleep like a baby, lulled along by inviting beds and down-filled pillows. All rooms have an outside window, private bathrooms stocked with aromatherapy products, flat-screen televisions and a sitting area.

The food – a blend of classic and contemporary European cuisine – is outstanding, with complimentary fine wines at dinner. Cappuccinos and lattes are available 24 hours a day, while the Captain’s welcome and farewell dinner are highlights.

One of 26 European river cruise itineraries offered by Traflagar Uniworld in 2008, the European Serenade package includes 11 complimentary shore excursions led by English-speaking local guides. State-of-the-art audio headsets are provided so that you can wander off for a closer view of some architectural gem or gorgeous shop window while still listening to every word the guide has to say.

Optional excursions include a classical music concert in Vienna, the picturesque Dutch windmill village of Zaanse Schans, and a superb dinner at Rüdesheim Schloss.

Perhaps the biggest surprise of the cruise is Siegfried’s Museum in Rüdesheim, with its amazing mechanical musical instruments. Regensburg is an unspoiled gem that richly deserves its World Heritage listing. And few could fail to be impressed by Rothenburg, Germany’s best preserved medieval town.

With a maximum of 132 passengers, Trafalgar Uniworld’s boutique cruise ships have a friendly intimacy but are not so small that you are in each other’s laps. Service is attentive and personal.

Regardless of how fit you are, walking in Europe can be tiring – all those cobbled streets are hard on the legs. It’s great knowing that you can retreat to the sanctuary of your floating hotel and put your feet up while travelling to the next destination.

Fact file:

For more information about Trafalgar Uniworld’s selection of five-star European river cruises, visit www.trafalgar.net.au/RiverCruise or your local travel agent.

© Christine Salins

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