Wandering without agenda in Japan is terribly underrated, says food and travel writer Jane Lawson in her latest book, Secret Japan.
Published by Affirm Press, Lawson’s book suggests that to fully appreciate all that Japan offers, it is essential not to rush or try to see ‘everything’, as tempting as that might be if you have only a few weeks.
Currently riding a tourism boom – with Australians, especially, visiting in droves – Japan is facing the dilemma that has beset popular tourist spots around the world. That is, overcrowding of its best-known destinations, making it harder to feel the magic that made the country popular in the first place.
(Side note: I’m glad that I first experienced the magic of Japan more than 20 years ago, and that I’ve been fortunate to have seen quite a lot of the country before the crowds descended.)
In Secret Japan, Lawson, who has been travelling to Japan for more than 40 years, guides readers to a deeper and more authentic connection with the country, one where you’ll hopefully experience some of the unexpected moments that make travel worthwhile — and in the process help relieve Japan of its tourist chokepoints.
When Lawson speaks of authenticity, she isn’t talking about spending every night on a tatami mat in a ryokan (traditional inn), enjoying onsen baths and dining kaiseki-style. Rather, she wants to help you discover the best of Japan for yourself — to hear things that are unspoken, to read visual cues that can’t be seen unless explained, to better understand the culture, and to appreciate experiences that occur naturally along the way.
A former chef and food publisher who previously authored, among other books, Zenbu Zen, Yoshoku and A Little Taste of Japan, Lawson is the founder of boutique travel company Zenbu Tours, offering immersive culinary and cultural experiences in Japan, and Zenbu Home, an online store celebrating Japan’s handcrafted and timeworn objects.
Lawson has spent a large part of her life in Kyoto, the city that is now experiencing the pressures of tourism perhaps more acutely than anywhere else in Japan. She considers Kyoto her second home but is thankful that there are “many smaller and undiscovered Kyotos waiting” to be discovered.
To help you on your way, she presents what you might call ‘mood boards’, offering an overview of highlights in all 47 prefectures. These aren’t exhaustive lists of where to go and what to do, “because there’s already so much of that out there, plus there are endless amazing places to discover on your own”.
Instead, the pages are filled with experiences and observations drawn from more than four decades of travel, sprinkled with some of her favourite places and spaces. She offers tips on exploring, deciding when to travel, cultural faux pas, culture and gastronomy, even suggestions for walking meditations and how to read Japanese gardens.
Whether you are planning a guided tour or wandering at will, it’s all incredibly useful information – not the sort of stuff easily found elsewhere but rather, the lesser-known, harder-to-find sort of advice.
Lawson wants to help people get the most out of their trip, regardless of the time they have available. Even just a handful of days can unlock special experiences to build on. After all, it is almost impossible not to return once Japan seeps into your bloodstream.
“This country has an uncanny knack for getting under your skin,” she says. “There’s so much nuance to discover – every pocket of Japan carries its own flavour and tempo, which continues to amaze me.”
