With its bucolic views of cows grazing, a stone cellar door where time appears to have stood still, and lush green lawns leading down to rows of grapevines, Cupitt’s Estate would not look out of place in rural France. Yet here we are, on Australia’s NSW south coast, where Griff and Rosie Cupitt have carved out their own slice of paradise.
That it draws inspiration from the rustic charm of European vineyards is not surprising since Rosie is a horticulturalist who travelled extensively in Europe and ran garden tours in France. When the Cupitts bought the then cattle farm in 2003, Rosie set about re-creating many of the things she loved about France.
Together with Griff, sons Wally and Tom, and Tom’s wife Libby, the family transformed the property into what it is today — a winery, brewery, restaurant and luxury retreat where fresh produce, artisanal craftsmanship, sustainability and nature come together.
According to son Wally, it all came about quite organically, though not without a lot of hard work. They started with a 30-seat restaurant, planted a vineyard in 2003, opened the cellar door in 2007, and followed with the brewery in 2014. The estate’s 10 villas are a more recent offering.
Griff still has 70 Black Angus cows (who on the morning of our stay had a ringside view of me taking a bath in the outdoor tub). The cellar door – in an 1852 building that was originally a butter creamery – was initially used by Rosie as a fromagerie before she was told that her cheesemaking venture was the cause of her persistent cough.
Now the lovingly restored space is used for wine tastings, available for $15 per person, with the fee waived if you purchase two or more bottles. Rather than indulging at the cellar door, we were introduced to the wines during a ‘Meet the Winemaker’ experience with Wally Cupitt.
Tastings in the cellar
Wally, who is head winemaker, tells us the story of how it all began before guiding us into the underground barrel cave where half a dozen wines are ready for tasting. Dug deep into the earth, the cellar is forged from local Milton monzonite rock and is beautifully cool. We’re greeted with the heady aroma of wine barrels that gladdens the senses of wine lovers everywhere.
I’m stunned to learn that Cupitt’s made 24 wines last year, and not just any wines, jolly good wines. There’s a strong focus on Mediterranean varieties and we taste some wonderful expressions of Fiano, Arneis, Barbera and Nebbiolo. (Sangiovese, Montepulciano, Vermentino, and Albarino will have to wait for another day.)
The estate itself produces just 4 tonnes of Sauvignon Blanc, its igneous rock soil high in magnesium, resulting in good acidity in the wine. But the relatively humid coastal climate has led Cupitt’s to source cooler-climate grapes from inland New South Wales regions such as Hilltops, Tumbarumba, Canberra, and Orange. All the wine is made on site.
“We are so close to these amazing regions,” says Wally, who learnt to make wine in France’s Loire Valley and took over the role of winemaker from his dynamo mum in 2013.
Wally’s “less is best” philosophy – allowing the grapes to find their voice but ultimately letting them do the talking – has produced wines with structure and complexity that reflect the varietal character and region in which they are grown.
We loved the delicate and aromatic Hilltops Viognier, and the easy-drinking 2023 Arneis from Canberra’s Pankhurst vineyard, with its subtle apple and pear notes. A very light Tumbarumba Pinot Noir has a hint of spice and would be nice served slightly chilled.
After a behind-the-scenes look at both the winery and the brewery, we end up back at the bar to sample a few of the craft beers. There are four core ones — IPA, Pale Ale, Lager and Session Ale — as well as other small-batch offerings, including a limited release stout aged in former wine barrels.
The estate’s 10 stand-alone villas are designed such that they are peaceful, relaxing and private, with great attention to detail. Spacious, yet cosy and intimate, they feature premium furnishings and amenities, right down to a cocktail-making kit, outdoor bathtub, well-stocked mini-bar (including local Woodstock chocolates), and curated artworks from a local gallery. If you fall in love with the artworks, you can even buy them to take home.
The villas have a Scandi ambience with lots of wood and glass, allowing plenty of light to stream in, blonde wood floors, and a super-comfy fabric-covered lounge. The bedroom is darker with plush bedding and oodles of pillows to nestle into.
On the small dining table there is a beautifully presented breakfast hamper with Brookfarm muesli and freshly baked bread. Tea is from local company Tea Journeys and the single origin filter coffee is from Guerrilla Roasters. Barista coffee is available from the bar from 9am.
If you’re wanting to spend a cosy night in, you can self-cater (the kitchenette has a large fridge and convection microwave oven) or you can order from the in-room dining menu and have a meal delivered to your fridge so that you can reheat it at your leisure. This service is available from Sunday to Wednesday when the Dining Room is closed. Takeaway pizzas – available in the Wine Garden for lunch daily and dinner on Fridays – can also be ordered to enjoy in your villa.
But as tempting as all that sounds, you’d really be missing something if you didn’t step out and savour the complete experience of this beautiful property. The Dining Room has stunning views over the vineyard and Budawang Ranges. Its classy but relaxed ambience provides a great backdrop for a seasonal menu focused on fresh produce and estate-grown herbs.
A glass of Cupitt’s Tumbarumba Chardonnay with half a dozen local oysters was the perfect prelude for our autumn-inspired meal that included an entrée of Roasted figs and grapes with whipped ricotta, and a dessert of Caramelized garden figs with salted hazelnuts and dark chocolate ganache (you can never have too many figs). My main dish of Fremantle octopus, nicely charred with cavolo nero and romesco sauce, was delicious and took me back to a memorable meal in Spain. I love how food can evoke these happy memories.
For a more laid-back vibe, the covered deck and outdoor Wine Garden are perfect for enjoying a leisurely lunch, wine and beer flights, or sunset drinks. As we discovered, the sunsets here are special. The pet-friendly garden terrace has cruisy live music sessions on Sunday afternoons (and on some Friday evenings too).
The Cupitts are committed to reducing their environmental footprint, with sustainability at the heart of everything they do, from composting organic waste to running a closed-loop farming system. Measures include an on-site water treatment plant that recycles water for use on the land, and offering filtered tap water instead of plastic bottles in the villas. The property has an EV charger.
Nestled between Milton and Ulladulla, surrounded by the Burrill Lake wetlands and Budawang Mountain ranges, Cupitt’s Estate makes a great base for scenic walks, hitting the beach, shopping in quaint little stores, or kicking back in local cafés. But you’d be hard-pressed to want to leave.
It’s clear that a lot of passion has gone into creating the estate. Not surprisingly, it is perfect for weddings. As we were leaving, a wedding party arrived to check out the venue before their big day. What a gorgeous setting for a bridal couple to write their own romantic story.
Cupitt’s Estate
58 Washburton Road
Ulladulla NSW 2539
Australia
+61 (0)2 4455 7888
www.cupittsestate.com.au
With thanks to Cupitt’s Estate for hosting us for a night at their beautiful property.
