With influences from periods of Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman rule, Greece’s second city, Thessaloniki, is a melting pot of flavours and culinary traditions. In 2021, its rich culinary heritage was recognised when it was named Greece’s first UNESCO City of Gastronomy.
Australian food writer Meni Valle, who has produced a number of cookbooks drawing on her Greek heritage, turns to this part of Northern Greece for her latest book, simply titled Thessaloniki.
Thessaloniki was the childhood home of Valle’s mother, and the author has clearly found great joy in researching the stories behind the 70+ recipes in the book. The book celebrates both traditional and modern dishes, capturing the essence of its modest, homey kitchens and the slow food philosophy that defines its cuisine.
Home-style flavours
Chapters cover mezes, preserves, vegetables, meat, seafood and sweets that reflect the region’s culinary past. The simplicity of fried eggplant with honey reveals the area’s Sephardic Jewish influences; the spicy tenderness of lamb cooked in yoghurt and the home-style flavours of traditional flaky bougatsa pastry celebrate regional Greek influences.
Through the recipes and evocative photography, Valle invites readers to savour the unrecognised gems of Greek gastronomy and reconnect with Thessaloniki’s time-honoured traditions.
The city’s abundant natural resources, from fertile plains to mountainous enclaves, contribute to a diverse array of ingredients, including the renowned Greek elephant beans and stone fruits.
Valle’s work not only uncovers these regional specialties but also weaves in the rich historical tapestry shaped by Sephardic Jews, Ottoman influences, and returning Greek émigrés, offering a new perspective on Northern Greek cuisine.
Cooking classes
Her Greek heritage, coupled with her love for travel and food, has seen Valle become one of Australia’s most respected authorities on Mediterranean cuisine. We’ve featured recipes from some of her previous books, including the acclaimed Ikaria.
When she is not writing cookbooks, Valle shares her knowledge and passion for Greek food through cooking classes and culinary tours to Greece, where she loves connecting with locals and discovering new recipes.
Olive Oil Chocolate Mousse
(Sokolatas Mous)
Adding olive oil to a chocolate mousse enhances its flavour and gives a silky, smooth texture and creamier consistency. You will love how simple and delicious this is!
Serves 4
150 g (5½ oz) 70% cacao cooking chocolate
100 ml (3½ fl oz) extra‑virgin olive oil, plus extra to serve
250 ml (8½ fl oz/1 cup) whipping cream
¼ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
raspberries (or any other berries you prefer), to serve
Break the chocolate into pieces and put in a large non‑metal bowl. Melt in the microwave in 20‑second intervals, stirring in between. If you do not have a microwave, melt in a double boiler on the stovetop. Add the olive oil to the melted chocolate and stir well.
Whip the cream until it has soft peaks then add the salt and vanilla extract. Fold into the chocolate mixture. Pour the mousse into individual glasses or bowls and refrigerate for at least 1 hour. Top with raspberries and drizzle with a little extra olive oil, if desired, to serve.
Recipe and images from Thessaloniki, by Meni Valle, published by Hardie Grant Books, RRP $50, and reproduced with the publisher’s permission. Photographer and stylist: Stephanie Stamatis.
